Omega’s new Speedmaster Moonwatch 321 Stainless Steel (US$14,100) pays homage to a vintage Speedmaster ST 105.003 worn by astronaut Edward White in 1965, when he became the first American to walk in space.
The latest Moonwatch is only the second model that is powered by the recently revived Caliber 321 movement. The brand’s historic manually winding column-wheel chronograph traces it legacy back to the first Speedmaster in 1957. It also equipped the Speedmasters that NASA outfitted its astronauts with as they went into space and ultimately landed on the moon.
After a half-century retirement from production, the brand dedicated a workshop and enlisted the help of researchers, developers, historians, and watchmakers to faithfully reconstruct the intricate movement to its original specs.
After two years, the 321 went back into production for last July’s unveiling of the Speedmaster Professional Platinum 321. That special edition commemorated the 50th anniversary of the Apollo 11 moon landing, when Neil Armstrong walked on the lunar surface wearing his Speedmaster and endowing the brand with an enduring claim to fame as the first watch worn on the moon.
Now, the chronograph equips a far more accessible and non-limited stainless-steel model that takes its cues from White’s vintage Speedmaster. Given its significance, the movement is showcased through a sapphire crystal case back.
The 39.70mm case is fitted with a bezel ring in polished black ceramic with a tachymeter scale in white enamel. The black step dial exhibits the familiar Moonwatch hands, small seconds sub-dial, 30-minute recorder and 12-hour recorder, plus a central chronograph hand.
And to the delight of collectors, the design incorporates authentic vintage touches, such as a “Dot over Ninety” bezel, referring to a tiny detail on the tachymeter scale of pre-1970 Speedmasters that placed the dot above the 90 on the scale. On subsequent models the dot is positioned next to the 90. In another nod to the past, the watch exhibits vintage brand logos throughout the design.
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January 08, 2020 at 03:33AM
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Omega Extends Moonwatch Legacy with Speedmaster 321 in Stainless Steel - Barron's
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